Art of coat making



Dec. 20, 1932. M. sENzl-:R

ART OF COAT MAKING Filed Aug. 5, 1952 VPatented Dec. 20, 1932 Yiirjs'rirra'sf-srinz'isxn,or HIGHLAND PARK, NEW JERSEY v ART oF COMMAKLNG Application `tiled August 5, 11932. Serial No. 627,654.

- My'invention relates to the art of making coats for ladies and gentlemen including overcoats and raincoats. Primarily the invention h'as'for its object 5 to make a coat of nea-t and stylish appearance by the use of a Dminimum amount of cloth With minimum Waste ofm'aterial.

Further, it is an object to provide a coat having a full back, front, and top sleeves integral with each other, the 'front and back parts being sewn together with a side seam extending from varmpit to belt line only 'and the upper and lower .front parts being sewn tog-ether along the belt'line,'there being no cross or vertical 'seam in the back section of the coat.

Further it is an object of the inventionto provide a method of getting'all yof the pattern parts of the coat out of a single rectangular 2O'piece of cloth of an area of approximately ten percent less than that now vrequired in cutting the coat according to the conventional methods.

Again it is an 'object' Vto provide a pattern or method of cutting coats Vwhereby from a given rectangular piece of goods the 'front7 the back, the skirt, top sleeves, under sleeves,

facings,`top collar, cuffs, beltand pockets may be cut With a mini-mum Waste of Cloth 30' and whereby the garment may Ybe finished with less laborthan by the use' ofthe patterns and methods of cutting now employed.

Other objects Will in part be obvious and in part be pointed outfher'einafter.

and ends, the invention still further resides in the novel features of construction, combination and arrangement of parts, all of which will be 'first fully described lin the following- V detailed description, then be particularly pointed out-in the appended claims,y reference being had to the accompanying draw-- being in place and the dotted lines showing' the outline of the piece of cloth before it isf folded over.

'2 and above the 'top sleevef.

To the attainment of the aforesaid objects bfodying'my invention, a portion of 'thelvbelt beingleft untac'ked to shoWthe Waist seam.

VFigure Sis afre'ar elevation'of the coat.

In tliefdravving in vhichlike numerals and letters of reference designatelike parts in L55 all offthe figures, ll is the back of the coat which is inone piece from the'neck down to the bottom of the skirt While 2 indicates the upper 'front'quarter sections or breast sections ofthe coat, they being integral with the "60 'back l'along the shoulder lin'e'j.

3 is the top sleeve which isalso integral 4with the sections 1 and 2 at the shoulder'and lies vin its pattern bel'owthe 'breast section Qand 'above they lower quarter or front skir't`6"5 section 6 of the coat. y y y y The under sleeves and the' frontivertical edge facing strips 5 are cut from the cloth ,in the upper corner beyond the breast section 7o '"6 desigi'iates thel'ovver front quarter 'sections of the coat and these' are marde integral With the 'back section beloW'the Waistline je,

"thesarn'e lyingfto" one side of the sideline k of the back and terminating at the`upper`edge"75 e Vvat the 'belt line 4of the garment."

'7 is the front ledge facingstrip A'for'the section 6 which may be left Vintegral. `-with that section and folded over, `or it maybe cut. from theI section'andjsevvn to the edge asmayo be preferred, Y I

The full belt-8 is cut vfrom the'cloth'belovi7 the sections 1,` 6, and 7 as'shown. p

The top "collar 9'an'd the cuffs V10 are cut from the cloth in the space above the baek"'85 and breast sections 'of the coat.

The `cloth which is located below the top sleeve 3 and abo-ve' they lower-quarter section 6 `of the frontof the' coat is of 'ample `degree to Ipermit 'one or more VIJockets'll'to :be cut/'90 from the 'samen n p I a' designates the neck `opening' of the v'integralrback and 'breast sections, a `thefcorresponding portion of the facingfstrip"5,`the

edge L 'of Avvhich is'se'vvn to thefedge Hof thel`9i5 breast section 2. b4-i indicates the larnihole edg'efof' the "breast sections'2 `'While c'indicatesthe'armhole edge of, the backfl. vThe v "edgejbvfof' the top" sleeve 3 is'sewnto the Figure 2 is a front elevation of a coat emed'ge lb of the breast "section 'awhnethedgdlpoo c of the top sleeve is sewn to the edge c of the back in lmaking up the coat.

The edges f and f ofthe top and under sleeves respectively are sewn together as are 5 also the edges g and g', while the edge z" of the under sleeve is sewn to the edge 'i or c of the breast section 2 and back l respectively. The edge d of the breast section is sewn to the edge CZ of the back section while the edge e of the breast section 2 is sewn tothe edge e of the section 6.

The full belt is cut from the bottom edge of the sections 1 and 6 along the line L and after being made up is sewn to the assembled coat so as to cover the belt seam Q -e'. It will thus be seen that I-have utilized as much of the cloth as possible in an eilicient way, leaving very little waste and enabling me to use a rectangular piece of cloth 230 which experience has shown is approximately ten percent -less than that required for cutting a coat by the old methodsnow in `general use.

It should, of course, be understood that the garment may be cut with a curved line at cZ-d instead of a straight line as when it is desired to make the coat a form-fitting garment instead of a box coat.

From the .foregoing description, takenin 3 0 connection with the accompanying drawing, it is thought that the advantages of my in vention will be clear tothose skilled in the art.

What I claim is: y l. In the art of coat manufacture, the method of cutting coats from rectangular blanks of cloth which consists in laying out the back of the coat, two upper quarter-front sections, two lower quarter-front sections and 40 two top sleeves as an integral structure, the upper quarter sections being integral with the back sections along the shoulders, vand the lower vquarter sections being integral with the back section along the sides thereof, the

f5 top sleeves being integral with the back section and the upper quarter-front sections at the shoulders, cutting the parts to provide arm holes to the edgesof which thesleeves are adapted to be sewn, said upper quarterfront sections being cut with edges adapted to be sewn to the back section along vertical lines extending from the arm holes 'to the belt line of the garment, said upper and lower front sections being cut with cooperating ,55 edges adapted to be sewn together along the belt line, under sleeves and front edge facing strips cut from the blank at the corners beyond the upper quarter-front sections and above the top sleeves, and locating facing 50 strips along the extreme vertical edge of the lower quarter-front sections.

2. In the art of coat manufacture, the method of cutting coats from Vrectangular .blanks of cloth which consists in laying-out the back ofthe coat, two upper quarter-front sections, two lower quarter-front sections and two top sleeves as an integral structure, the upper quarter sections being integral with the back sections along the shoulders, and the lower quarter sections being integral with the back section along the sides thereof, the top sleeves being integral with the back section and the upper quarter-front sections at the shoulders, cutting the parts to provide arm holes to the edges of which the sleeves are adapted to be sewn, said upper quarterfront sections being cut with edges adapted to be sewn to the back section along vertical lines extending from the arm holes to the belt line of the garment, said upper and lower front sections being cut with cooperating edges adapted to be sewn together along the belt line, under sleeves and front edge facing strips cut from the blank at the corners beyond the upper quarter-front sections and above the top' sleeves, and locating facing strips along theextreine'vertical edge of the lower quarter-front sections, said method consisting further in cutting a full belt strip transversely along the lower edge of the back and lower front quarter sections.

3. In the art of coat manufacture, the method of cutting coats from Vrectangular blanks of cloth which consists in laying out the back of the coat, two upper quarter-front sections, two lower quarter-front sections and two top sleeves as an integral structure, the

upper quarter sections being integral with the back sections along the shoulders, and the lower quarter sections being integral with the back section along the sides thereof, the top sleeves being integralwith the back Section and the upper quarter-front sections at the shoulders, cutting the parts to provide arm holes to the edges of which the sleeves are adapted to be sewn, said upper quarter-front sections being cut with edges adapted to be sewn to the back section along vertical lines extending from the arm holes to the belt line of the garment, said upper and lower front sections being cut with cooperating edges adapted to be sewn together along the belt line, under sleeves andy front edge facing strips cut from the back at the corners beyond the upper quarter-front sections and above the top sleeves, and locating facing strips along the extreme vertical edge of the lower quarter-front sections, said method consisting further in cutting a full belt strip transversely along the lower edge of the back and lower front quarter sections, and cutting atop collar and cus from the blank above MATHIAS YSENZER. 

